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This year the first week of April brings with it two of the most important religious holidays: Easter and Passover, both typically celebrated in the company of family and steeped in tradition and symbolism in the selection of food and drink.
Although some denominations discourage the intake of alcohol at any time, among many Christians and Jews worldwide, alcohol has been a major part of religious rites, rituals and sacred traditions since biblical times.
In her latest cookbook, "Sober Celebrations: Lively Entertaining Without the Spirits" (Cleveland Clinic Press, April 2007), chef Liz Scott of New Jersey discusses this phenomenon. This cookbook, which is organized around menus for America's favorite holidays, traditions and special occasions, won the National Health Information Award for Patient Education Information, as well as the Independent Publisher Book Award in Health, Medicine and Nutrition.
"Having 'plenty' of wine was considered a blessing (Gen. 27:28), while St. Paul suggested taking 'a little wine for the sake of your stomach and your frequent ailments,' (1 Tim. 5:38)," Scott writes, adding however, that "Advice such as 'wine is to be avoided if it stumbles a brother' (Romans 14:21) is an early indication that ... the ancients were aware that while some people possessed the ability to drink in moderation, others crossed the line into impairment and addiction."
A graduate of the French Culinary Institute and Villa Schifanoia in Florence, Italy, Scott was named one of eight American pioneers and innovators in the field of addiction recovery by the Johnson Institute of Washington, D.C., in 2005 and presented the Research Society on Alcoholism's Journalism Award in 2004.
Scott says that for many who do not drink, nonalcoholic versions of the "fruit of the vine" are acceptable substitutes for communion and Passover wine. However, she notes that there are Catholic priests in recovery who still sip wine during Mass and also rabbis who imbibe during rituals without consequence, which goes against the science of addiction. She suggests that the anterior cingulated cortex, which governs the executive function of the brain, is the area associated with alcohol dependence and begins developing at an early age. The moderate drinking habits learned during religious rituals, if learned early, may be so ingrained, she says, that the idea of getting drunk becomes something totally separate. Thus, while normally addicts must avoid familiar visual cues that would remind them of drinking, the sacred environmental cues of wine, goblets and toasting may hold less power for Jewish alcoholics or those who enter the priesthood at an early age.
Scott also cites a Columbia University study, however, which addressed the low incidence of alcoholism in Jews and suggests that a rare gene form discourages excess alcohol consumption, not unlike the gene that affects Asian peoples.
If someone is in alcohol recovery, unless he is a priest or rabbi, sipping alcohol on any occasion is not a good idea, Scott says. One must explain to family and friends the need to abstain and remain firm, partaking instead of the uplifting effects of sacred traditions and family continuity.
Easter Sunday
With the end of the 46-day period of Lent, Easter is the time to enjoy a hearty, rich meal, and, in "Sober Celebrations," Scott offers an Italian menu as a variant for those tired of the old baked ham and string bean casserole dinners. All of the ingredients are quintessentially spring, great for symbolizing rebirth .
She starts the meal with an easy primavera antipasto platter to prime the palate, along with her Sauteed Baby Artichokes and pane rustica, a large oval-shaped Italian bread. Paired with this first course is her White Cranberry Cordial.
White Cranberry Cordial
A bit smoother and less tart than red cranberries, the white berry is harvested before it turns red. Look for brands that are 100-percent juice. (She recommends the Kadem brand of white grape juice for its clean, authentic flavor.) The acidity and sweetness complements the artichokes, antipasto and the rich virgin olive oil. Serve well chilled in small juice or cordial glasses for sipping.
Have all ingredients well chilled.
Ingredients:
32 ounces white cranberry juice
16 ounces white grape juice
Splash white balsamic vinegar
Either combine both juices in a pitcher, or put 4 ounces cranberry juice and 2 ounces grape juice in each glass. Add vinegar just before serving.
For the entree, she serves a Herb-Roasted Leg of Lamb with an alcohol-free Blood Orange Balsamic Reduction sauce, and as side support, she has a recipe for Mascarpone Mashed Potatoes and also served Baby peas and pearl onions. With this course, she serves sparkling orange spring water.
As dessert, she suggests her grandmother's (Nonnah's) Easter Wheat Pie and Lavender Honey Drenched Struffoli, with which she serves espresso.
Passover Seder
Each year, Jewish families gather around elegant tables to celebrate one of their most important holidays -- Pesach, or Passover. The Seder meal celebrates the deliverance of the Israelites from slavery in ancient Egypt.
"Hosting the first or second night can prove a daunting prospect when a great number of family members are invited and every little detail requires the utmost attention," Scott says. For that reason, her book offers an Easy Passover Seder for Ten.
To begin, of course, is the traditional Seder Plate with Holiday Haroseth.
Holiday Haroseth
As part of the Seder plate, haroseth symbolizes the mortar used by the Hebrew slaves when building the Egyptian pyramids. Variations on the recipe abound, she says.
Usually, a high-sugar Passover wine binds the diverse elements of the haroseth together, but when alcohol-free versions are made, most cooks simply substitute grape juice as they would at the table for drinking. Scott's recipe, a combination of Ashkenazi (European) and Yemenite (Middle Eastern) haroseth, uses pomegranate juice, but she says that blueberry, cherry or tangerine juice may be combined with the pomegranate to add another layer of flavor.
While it is customary to chop all ingredients by hand, food processors sometimes step in today. Make it 24 hours ahead, refrigerate and then serve at room temperature. This recipe yields 2 cups (about 3 tablespoons each for 10 people) and can be easily doubled.
Ingredients
1/4 cup sweetened pomegranate juice
1 cup pitted dates, coarsely chopped
1 cup walnut pieces
1 large Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and coarsely chopped
1/4 teaspoon each ground cinnamon and ground ginger
One pinch each ground cardamom, ground coriander and cayenne pepper
1. Heat the pomegranate juice in a small saucepan, add dates, remove from the heat and allow to soak for 10 minutes.
2. In a medium-size mixing bowl, combine the pomegranate-date mixture with the remaining ingredients and stir to combine. Chill, covered, in the refrigerator and bring to room temperature before serving. Serves 10.
(Scott notes that Pom Wonderful pomegranate juice has been O/U (Union of Orthodox Rabbis) certified as kosher for Passover. See www.kosherquest.org for an updated list of approved products.)
For appetizers, Scott serves Gefilte Fish with Salad Garnish; as a first course, Roasted Chicken Soup with Herbed Matzo Balls; and as a main course, Slow-Cooker Brisket with Dried Fruit and Root Vegetables, along with her Golden Potato Casserole and steamed asparagus.
Traditionally, four cups of wine are consumed during the service, representing the four divine promises of redemption," she says. For those who do not or cannot drink alcohol, the usual substitute is grape juice. Scott suggests surprising everyone (including Elijah's cup) with this refreshing drink for the Seder Service and the main meal.
Wine-Free Kosher Toaster
Scott says this refreshing and sparkling citrus drink is perfect for the reading of the Haggadah (a narrative of the Exodus) and will also bring out the best in the dishes to follow.
Make ahead in decorative pitchers (one for each end of the table) and serve slightly chilled.
Two 64-ounce bottles Concord grape juice
2 cups fresh-squeezed orange juice (about 6 medium-size navel or juicing oranges)
Juice of 2 limes
One 32-ounce bottle cherry-flavored seltzer water
Combine all the ingredients, dividing between two 2-quart pitchers, and stir well. If making ahead, stir in the seltzer just before serving. Serves 10.
As dessert, Scott offers a recipe for Chocolate Souffle Torte with Raspberry Cream Drizzle and also suggests assorted macaroons. With these desserts, she would serve red raspberry tea with honey.
Nancy Wooten may be reached at 803-533-5540 or by email at nwooten@timesanddemocrat.com.