One day in Southern Afghanistan
By Bill Connor, T&D Columnist Sunday, July 29, 2007Attorney Bill Connor of Orangeburg is in Afghanistan for a year-long deployment as leader of an elite infantry advisory team. Connor, whose team includes state Rep. James E. Smith Jr., is part of the 218th Infantry Brigade.
Since my deployment to Afghanistan, many people have asked me about the Afghan people: their customs, way of life, standard of living, etc.
In my normal duties, I do come in contact with Afghans on a daily basis. However, this is usually as part of a large number of coalition forces in larger urban areas. A few days ago I was part of a unique mission to a remote Afghan village. The description of this full day gives the best anecdotal image of the Afghans in the Southern Region.
One note before I begin: Southern Afghanistan is almost exclusively Pashtu. The Pashtu people make up about half of Afghanistan and are a distinct ethnic group in the east and south. This is to be distinguished from the Tajiks, Uzbeks, Hazaras and other smaller minority groups, who speak Dari, not Pashtu, and live in the northern and western parts of Afghanistan. The Pashtu people form a fiercely proud warrior culture and place prime emphasis on hospitality, consensus, revenge and family honor.
My day began at about 3 a.m. at the airfield by preparing for the combat flight. I arrived with a Canadian officer on a mission to speak with the district police chief, speak to the district governor, and participate in a “Shura” (Shura is a council of leaders talking/arguing to form consensus in decision-making. In this case, with over 100 elders from the various villages in this remote area). The mission was planned and executed by a coalition special operations unit. This outfit planned the mission, secured the landing zone and organized the movement into the village. Also participating in the mission were American special operations soldiers and medical personnel. While we were involved in meetings, these medical personnel were to treat Afghans who came from miles around seeking help for various ailments.
The flight by helicopter took about an hour, and, by God’s grace, the three door gunners only had to “test fire” their machine guns. Being on a helicopter flying over Taliban-patrolled areas brings a true sense of vulnerability. When the chopper landed, those in the group made our way into the village.
Southern Afghanistan is primarily rocky desert, yet this village was located near one of the few rivers. Therefore, the population lived in an oasis of green surrounded by brown. Families in Afghanistan are quite insular and all the family compounds are surrounded by walls. Beyond protection, walls serve to help break the driving sandstorms. As our body of coalition soldiers drove into the village, local Pashtu people streamed out to stare at us in our “battle rattle” (body armor, helmets, M4 rifles, pistols, etc.). The few women, like virtually all women I have seen in Southern Afghanistan, were under blue burcas (covering every inch of their bodies with a mesh screen to see and breathe). Men and boys all wear what we like to call “man jammies”: These are loose-fitting and flowing oversized shirt and pants of all one light material.
When a coalition Special Forces officer, the Canadian officer and I came to meet the police chief, we were invited to sit down on his rug and drink “chi.” Chi is the famous Afghan tea and the most popular beverage in the country. The chief’s headquarters was a modest mud and thatch building. He entertained his guests under a staw-covered outdoor awning. While we discussed security issues primarily dealing with his fight against the nearby Taliban, his men brought us breakfast. This consisted of Afghan flatbread rolled out between of the circle of men. As is my habit, I said a prayer prior to eating. The Afghans found this of interest, as they pray after eating. We continued the discussion while dipping the flatbread into an egg sauce.
After our time with the police chief, we were led to a gathering of Afghan elders. At the “de facto” city hall, more than 100 older Afghan men were sitting on a giant rug waiting for us. This place was a high-roof open space building the Taliban had built as a Madrassa. It was now the governor’s building and meeting place for all councils. The older, bearded men were invited to hear what we had to say and then voice their issues to us. All men sat “Indian style” on the rug as we spoke through an interpreter. Our message was simple: We were not in Afghanistan to force a change to the Afghan culture. We wanted to leave the country (as a military force) as soon as possible. However, we needed their help in defeating the Taliban.
The interesting discussion came when the Afghan elders began voicing their concerns. What struck me was the similarity of their issues to those of local communities throughout the world. These men did not desire to talk about security issues and diverted the subject of security whenever it arose. Their primary concerns were jobs and economic growth. Most important was finding a way to bring business to their local areas. The elders lamented the loss of educated young men who left the area seeking outside employment. The gray-bearded men argued economics was driving the insurgency. We told them we would help bring their message to appropriate civilian agencies, but that our primary role as soldiers was to bring security. We argued that security would help with a road being built from the closest city. This road would bring commerce, jobs and, therefore, economic growth. We also stressed that security would help corporations feel more comfortable about investment and, therefore, jobs.
In keeping with Pashtu tradition, the Afghan elders showed us great hospitality. After the meeting with the men, we had a lavish lunch with the district governor. Of note, the governor’s brother lived in California. He was well educated and appreciative of what the United States could do for Afghanistan. Along with the police chief, this leader sincerely desired to help his people defeat the Taliban insurgency. We continued our discussions sitting in a circle on the governor’s rug while we ate flatbread and goat meat (Unfortunately, this made me sick a couple days later but part of the price to “win the hearts and minds”!) After a full day of meetings and the medical services, our ad-hoc group of coalition soldiers went back to the landing zone. By God’s grace, we sustained no casualties in this operation.
This day showed me much about the Afghan people. Their customs are clearly unique and traditional. Of course, the abject poverty here is striking: Afghanistan is the second poorest country in the world, has the highest infant mortality rate, and a life expectancy of just 42 for men. Despite the profound differences, the average Afghan leader and father has many of the same concerns as local leaders and fathers in America. They want to see business in their respective local areas. Afghan men want education for their children and want to see those educated children choose to stay and build.
Importantly, I sensed that these hardened Afghan men had a respect for American soldiers and the sacrifices being made by the American people. Day by day, America is making a difference in Afghanistan.
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