NEW YORK -- Knock on my door this Halloween, and you're not getting any candy. I'm giving out ladles of pumpkin bisque.

Yum.

OK, I'm not doing that. But imagine the reaction it would get from kids clamoring for candy.

When I trick-or-treated (you know, until about a year or two ago), it was always a competition to see who could get the most sweets in one night -- or participate in other nefarious acts that you would never get away with -- on any other night. What's a few eggs between guys dressed in drag or wearing a Batman cape?

While most people would then engage in the contest to see who can eat their take the fastest, I would challenge my siblings to a who-can-hold-out-the-longest test. I always won, ending up remembering where I stashed the loot just as talk of the next Halloween began.

If I were given the pumpkin bisque from The Four Seasons, I surely would've lost.

Co-opted by a holiday, the pumpkin has gotten a bad rep -- it's not just for jack-o-lanterns. Depending on the variety, it's a very tasty member of the squash family, most commonly used for pies on Thanksgiving. Its meat can be used in many of the same ways as squashes such as acorn or butternut. And of course, pumpkin seeds can be roasted as a snack.

Christian Albin, chef of The Four Seasons, prefers not to take the iconic Halloween pumpkin off the windowsill.

"The regular Halloween pumpkin is nice to look at, but the meat is not as tasty," he says.

He also insists it's time to drop the pumpkin's association with just one date. Pumpkins are in season from early October through January and even into February, he says.

For his soup, Albin uses the green-skinned calabaza and kabocha pumpkins, whose meat is more tender and sweet. To prep, you simply peel the skin and cut up the meat into small chunks. Because you will puree all the vegetables, it's not important to cut the vegetables to exacting sizes -- a perk of pureed soups.

The important thing about sauteing the veggies is that you want to bring out the flavor before adding the stock -- either chicken or vegetable -- so be sure to get them to a light golden brown, then add the stock and let them cook. Sauteing adds another layer of flavor.

Don't be alarmed by the "bisque" in the name; this is not a cream-heavy soup. The recipe calls for one cup for six portions. You can add a bit at a time, and as you whisk it in, taste it. If the soup achieves your desired silkiness before the full cup is added, good for your cholesterol.

"I just put a little bit for the consistency and the smoothness of the soup," Albin says. "If it's too thick, I'm going to put a little more chicken stock to thin it down to the right consistency."

When it comes to serving the soup, you can get all festive and clean out some small pumpkins or acorn squashes and bake them until they turn a nice brown for show. Pour the soup in, top with a dollop of creme fraiche -- and a few apple fritters as they do at The Four Seasons -- and serve.

You could even use a big Halloween pumpkin as a serving bowl and set in on your table as a decorative touch.

Whatever you do, don't carve the pumpkin until after the soup's done.

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