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The spice of life: The right seasoning can turn ordinary dishes into extraordinary

By MARIA NOEL GROVES, For The Associated Press  Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Leave a Comment | Default | Large

Setting up a spice cabinet for the first time? Or just ready to spring clean your old one? Here are the herbs and spices experts say are must-haves for every home cook.

BASIL

Fresh basil is best for pesto and salads, but dried basil is excellent for slow-cooked dishes, such as stews and casseroles, says Ian Hemphill, author of "The Spice and Herb Bible."

Dried basil is also a staple for Italian foods, such as tomato sauces and soups, as well as pizza and garlic bread.

BAY

Bay leaves add a complex, earthy flavor to chicken soup, tomato and seafood dishes. It's also the secret ingredient for French bouquets garnis, Indian garam masala, many Italian and Turkish recipes, and even a good bloody Mary mix. Buy the leaves whole to simmer and remove, or grind them to a powder as needed.

CHILIES

Every good cook needs at least one jar of pure chili powder or flakes. Cayenne and red pepper flakes are the most popular. Chili adds kick to any dish, whether the cuisine is Mexican, Thai, Korean, Indian, Tex-Mex or North African.

CHILI POWDER

This blend of chili, garlic, onion, cumin, oregano, paprika and other ingredients is great for seasoning tacos, bean chili, fajitas, meat, steak and many other Southwestern and Mexican favorites.

CINNAMON

Sweet cinnamon is essential for American baking but also makes an appearance in almost every region of Asian cuisine, Indian curries and masalas, Moroccan tagines, Mexican chocolate, tea blends and as an accent in Cajun dishes.

Powerful cassia cinnamon is the preferred version in America. Seek out true "vera" cinnamon for a more delicate, sweet seasoning. Vietnamese cinnamon offers intense flavors.

CLOVES

This potent American cookie and pastry spice crosses as many borders as cinnamon. Cloves appear in many spice blends, including curry and masalas, Chinese five-spice powder, and those used for mulling, tagines, chai and pickling.

Take a hint from the French, and simmer half an onion stuffed with cloves in meat stews or soups, suggests Aliza Green, author of "Field Guide to Herbs & Spices." Remove before serving for a subtle clove flavor.

CUMIN

Cumin is a crucial savory spice for Mexican, Tex-Mex, Indian, Middle Eastern, Indonesian and North African cooking, says Amanda Bevill, owner of World Spice Merchants in Seattle. The seeds can be used whole to infuse rice dishes and breads or ground for stews and chili.

CURRY POWDER

True Indian cooks prefer to create their own blends of spices for curry, but prepared blends have become a staple for Westerners looking to replicate Indian dishes. It provides instant flavor and brilliant color to rice, stews, sauteed onions, and, of course, curries.

This blend often includes coriander, cumin, chili, turmeric, ginger, mustard, as well as some sweeter spices such as fenugreek, cinnamon, cloves and cardamom. Blends vary widely according to region, dish or manufacturer.

GINGER

This rhizome provides warmth to American baking recipes, Asian stir-fries, Jamaican jerk, barbecue blends and Indian curry and tandoori mixes. Dried ginger is much more pungent and hot than minced or grated fresh ginger, which has a milder, almost lemony flavor.

PAPRIKA

This mild, bright red chili pepper comes in numerous varieties. The classic sweet Hungarian paprika is a central ingredient in goulash and an accent for tuna salad and deviled eggs. It also plays a pivotal role in Mexican, Cajun, Middle Eastern and Moroccan cuisine. Try smoked paprika to add deep, savory notes to your cooking.

NUTMEG

Just a bit of freshly grated nutmeg complements almost any recipe where cinnamon also is used. It provides complex, sweet vanilla-like undertones to baked goods and ethnic cuisines. It's best to buy nutmeg whole, then grate as needed.

OREGANO OR MARJORAM

Oregano and marjoram are used widely in Mediterranean and European cuisine. Pungent oregano is a critical ingredient in southern Italian and American recipes, such as pizza, pasta, meatloaf and roasts.

Marjoram -- a sweet, mild variation on oregano -- is popular in subtler French cuisine including stuffing, poultry, egg, fish and vegetable dishes.

ROSEMARY

This savory, resinous herb is used in European and American cuisines. It goes well with many types of meat, including game, poultry and lamb; poultry stuffing; potatoes, sweet potatoes, carrots and squash; zucchini and eggplant; and quick breads. Dried rosemary needs long cooking in liquid or baked goods to soften.

THYME

While thyme does not have the same cross-cultural range as other herbs and spices, it still plays an important roll in traditional French, Italian and American dishes. It's a critical ingredient in bouquet garni, herbes de Provence and Italian blends for use in meat rubs, roasts, poultry and stuffing, tomato-based dishes, soups, stews and potatoes.




KHAUKSWE CHICKEN

Start to finish: Four hours  (20 minutes active)

Servings: Six

1-1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds

2 tablespoons pumpkin seeds

2 tablespoons sunflower seeds

2 tablespoons sesame seeds

Salt, to taste

6 garlic cloves, peeled

2 red chilies, chopped

2 tablespoons vegetable or canola oil

1 teaspoon turmeric

1 teaspoon paprika

2 tablespoons tamarind paste

1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste, dissolved in 1 tablespoons hot water

Juice of 2 limes

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1/4 cup coconut milk

6 tablespoons plain yogurt

3 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts and thighs, cut into about 12 large pieces

For the garnish:

1/2 cut chopped fresh cilantro

2 red chilies, seeded and finely chopped

Zest of 4 limes

2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

Salt, to taste

In a large, dry skillet over medium-low heat, combine the cumin seeds, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds and sesame seeds. Sprinkle with a bit of salt; heat, stirring often, until the seeds are lightly toasted. Let cool.

In a food processor, combine the garlic, chilies, oil and a pinch of salt. Pulse until the garlic is well chopped. Add the turmeric, paprika and the toasted seeds. Pulse until a chunky, golden paste forms.

Add the tamarind, shrimp paste, lime juice, black pepper, about 1 teaspoon salt, coconut milk and yogurt. Pulse until well mixed. Transfer the marinade to a large bowl.

Add the chicken and rub the paste all over the chicken. Cover and refrigerate at least three hours.

When ready to cook, heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil. Place a metal cooling rack over the baking sheet. Arrange the chicken on the rack. Roast for 35 minutes, or until the juices run clear.

Meanwhile, prepare the garnish. In a small bowl, combine the cilantro, chilies, lime zest, garlic and salt.

When the chicken is done, pile it on a serving platter, and sprinkle with the cilantro mixture.

(Recipe adapted from Allegra McEvedy's "Coloring the Seasons," Kyle Books, 2007)




PEARS POACHED IN RED WINE

Start to finish: One hour (10 minutes active)

Servings: Four

750-millileter bottle robust red wine

1-1/2 cups sugar

2 cinnamon sticks

1 vanilla bean, slit down the center

2 cardamom pods

Juice of 2 oranges, plus the zest from one of them

1 orange, skin on, cut into 4 or 5 slices

4 ripe pears

In a large, heavy saucepan over high heat, combine all ingredients except the pears. Boil for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, peel the pears, leaving the stem intact. Carefully cut just enough off the bottom of each pear to create a flat bottom so the pears will stand up straight.

Stand the pears in the saucepan, cover and reduce to a simmer. Poach the pears, basting occasionally, for about 40 minutes, or until the pears are tender but still hold their shape.

During cooking, the poaching liquid will become syrupy. If the pears are cooked before the syrup has reduced enough, remove the pears and let the syrup cook and reduce.

Serve the pears with an orange slice and drizzled with syrup.

(Recipe adapted from Trish Deseine's "Nobody Does it Better ... ," Kyle Books, 2007)

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