Scallops are low in calories, fat, carbohydrates and cholesterol, so it's a nutritional crime when they are breaded and deep-fried or drowned in a fat-laden casserole.

Sea scallops, the larger and more widely available variety, are moist, sweet and slightly chewy. Tiny bay scallops are a bit sweeter and more succulent but are usually quite expensive because they are less plentiful.

Look for scallops with a moist surface and a sweet, fresh smell rather than fishy odor. Since they are often sold pre-packaged in trays or in plastic containers, you may want to get your scallops from the fish counter so you can ask to give them a sniff before they are wrapped.

When buying sea scallops, try to get those that are labeled "dry," which means they haven't been treated with the preservative sodium tripolyphosphate. They will be considerably more flavorful and tend to brown much better.

Frozen scallops are generally of a good quality and available year-round.

Though scallops are delicious on their own, they do benefit from added flavors. If you are using a liquid marinade, be careful not to let the scallops soak for too long as their texture can quickly degrade. Ten minutes of marinating usually is enough.

A dry rub made with herbs, spices and a bit of oil is one of the best ways to add flavor and keep scallops moist while cooking. With this method, you can let the flavors permeate the scallops for quite some time (up to 12 hours) without ruining their texture.

All scallops should be cooked for as short a time as possible to avoid them becoming tough and dried out.

This recipe for herb-rubbed grilled scallops is rich in Mediterranean flavors and can conveniently be prepped in the morning for cooking later in the day.

Serve them with a salad of chopped romaine lettuce and diced tomatoes tossed with a lemon juice-olive oil vinaigrette.

HERB-RUBBED GRILLED SCALLOPS

Start to finish: 20 minutes, plus two to 10 hours to marinate

Servings: Four

1 teaspoon dried tarragon

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

3/4 teaspoon dried oregano

3/4 teaspoon garlic powder

3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 pound sea scallops, rinsed and patted dry

1/4 teaspoon salt

Fresh lemon wedges

In a shallow dish, cover eight 10-inch bamboo skewers with water, and set aside to soak.

In a small bowl, combine the tarragon, thyme, oregano, garlic powder, pepper and oil. Add the scallops, and toss to coat. Cover the bowl, and refrigerate for two to 10 hours.

When ready to cook, heat a gas grill to medium-high, or prepare a charcoal grill.

Divide the scallops between the skewers, threading them through the sides. Season with salt. Grill until the scallops are golden brown on both sides and opaque in the center, about four minutes per side. Serve with lemon wedges.

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