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IDIOT IN THE KITCHEN: The daddy of all meat loaf sandwiches

By HOWIE RUMBERG, Associated Press Writer  Wednesday, June 04, 2008

Leave a Comment | Default | Large

Even when I was only cooking for one, I loved making large meat loaves.

As leftovers go, it's hard to top meat loaf. And one of my favorite ways to have next-day meat loaf is in a sandwich.

But I'm not talking about just any random joining of bread and meat. I'm talking a well-crafted sandwich, where all the components add up to something that can be as tasty and impressive as a well-prepared meal.

For that formula to work, the sandwich must include varying textures and flavors that complement and contrast, and the ingredients must be purposefully arranged between slices of fresh bread, not your average squishy loaf.

Unlike turkey, which is invariably dry in rerun, the best meat loaf for day-after sandwiches must retain its moisture and flavor. I favor Mitchell Davis' recipe in his cookbook, "Kitchen Sense."

Meat loaves intended for sandwiches should be made in loaf pans, not free-form as some recipes instruct. A loaf pan produces a tight loaf that will hold together better in a sandwich than free-form loaves will.

Another thing I avoid when I make meat loaf with sandwiches in mind is overloading the recipe with shredded vegetables, another foe of a solid loaf.

But the component that pulls my sandwich together -- elevates it, really -- is a topping of caramelized red onions finished with a splash of balsamic vinegar. They're sweet, tangy and almost jammy in texture.

Caramelizing onions is a method of sautéing until the onions' sugars turn to caramel, making them sweet, brown (red onions turn more deep purple than brown) and tender.

It's an idiot-proof process. Peel and trim the onion, then cut it in half, and thinly slice the halves. The slices then are slowly sautéed in butter and olive oil (or just oil, if you prefer).

Once the onions begin to brown, a splash of water is added to deglaze the pan, and the temperature is lowered. The key to caramelizing is slow and low. It will take a half hour or more, depending on the thickness of your slices.

Just before coming off the stove, the onions get a splash of balsamic vinegar, which ups the tangy-sweet flavors. But be careful. Steam will rush off the pan, and vinegar steam stings -- I know. So stand back.

COLD MEAT LOAF SANDWICH WITH BALSAMIC ONIONS

Start to finish: 40 minutes

Servings: Two

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium red onion, thinly sliced

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Splash of water

1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar

3 tablespoons mayonnaise

1 teaspoon whole-grain mustard

1 large clove garlic, finely minced or pressed

1/2 teaspoon lemon juice

4 slices rustic white, sourdough or multigrain bread

2 slices cold meat loaf, about 1/2-inch thick

4 slices Monterey Jack cheese

2 leaves romaine lettuce, center rib removed, folded and trimmed to fit the bread

In a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, combine the butter and olive oil, heating until the butter has melted. Add the onion slices, and sauté until they start to brown, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Add a splash of water to deglaze the pan, then lower the heat to medium, and continue cooking until the onions are soft and caramelized, about another 15 minutes. If the pan gets dry, add a bit more water.

Stir in the balsamic vinegar, and remove from the heat. Let the onions cool to room temperature. The onions can be refrigerated for later use. If so, let warm at room temperature for 30 minutes before using.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, mustard, garlic and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper, then set aside. This also can be prepared ahead and refrigerated.

To assemble the sandwiches, lightly toast the bread. Let the bread cool for a minute, then spread some of the mayonnaise mixture on all four slices.

Top two of the bread slices each with a slice of meat loaf. Place half of the onions over each meat loaf slice, then top each sandwich with two slices of cheese, a leaf of lettuce and a final slice of bread.

MEAT LOAF

In case you want to use what I consider the ideal meat loaf for next-day sandwiches, here is Mitchell Davis' recipe from his cookbook, "Kitchen Sense."

Start to finish: One hour 10 minutes (10 minutes active)

Servings: Four to six

Unsalted butter or oil, for coating the pan

2 pounds 85 percent lean ground beef (or a combination of ground beef, veal and/or pork)

1 large egg

1 small onion, grated

1 small clove garlic, minced

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard or Worcestershire sauce

3 tablespoons ketchup

1/4 cup unflavored bread crumbs

1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 strips raw bacon (optional)

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Coat a standard loaf pan with oil.

In a large bowl, combine the ground meat, egg, onion, garlic, mustard, ketchup, bread crumbs, parsley, salt and black pepper. Mix well with a wooden spoon or your hands.

Pack the meat mixture into the prepared loaf pan, rounding the top to form a nicely shaped loaf. If using the bacon, lay the strips along the top of the loaf.

Bake for one hour, or until the meat loaf has browned and an instant-read thermometer inserted at the center of the loaf reads 160 degrees. During baking, the meat will release liquid; it will subside and brown, giving the meat a nice crust.

Remove the meat loaf from the oven, and cool for 15 minutes in the pan before unmolding and slicing.

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Cold meatloaf sandwich with balsamic onions is way more than a typical leftovers sandwich. (AP Photo/Larry Crowe)




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