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COOKING ON DEADLINE: Rethink your spices with this African dish

By J.M. HIRSCH, AP Food Editor  Wednesday, June 11, 2008

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The pressures of weeknight cooking make it easy to fall into ruts, especially in the spice cabinet.

Most cooks reach for the same seasonings (Italian blend, anyone?) over and over. Yet herbs and spices offer some of the easiest, cheapest and fastest ways to overhaul your kitchen repertoire.

One way is to look for cuisines that use familiar spices in unfamiliar ways. Much of Africa and the Middle East, for example, prepare savory foods with what Americans consider sweet spices, such as cinnamon, nutmeg and cardamom.

Even easier is to turn to the many spice blends available from around the world (even if they are not always completely authentic).

For example, a skillet chicken dish to which you normally add Italian seasonings such as basil or oregano can become a completely different dish by substituting curry powder for the herbs.

This recipe for doro wat, a staple of Ethiopian cooking, uses both techniques. Key flavors come from nutmeg and cardamom, spices Americans mostly associate with baked sweets.

It also relies on the traditional Ethiopian spice blend berbere, a bright red mixture of garlic, red pepper, cardamom, coriander and fenugreek commonly used in soups and stews. Its flavors are warm, but not hot.

As adapted here, doro wat is a great example of using seasonings to turn otherwise common ingredients -- chicken breasts and diced onions -- into something different.

This recipe is easy to change around. Any firm, white fish (or even shrimp) could be used instead of chicken (cooking time will be shorter). And tomato sauce could be substituted for the wine.

Doro wat is traditionally served with flatbread, which is used instead of silverware to pick up and eat the morsels of chicken and soak up the sauce. Sour cream or plain yogurt is also a nice complement.

DORO WAT CHICKEN

Start to finish: 30 minutes

Servings: Four

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch chunks

Juice of one lemon

Kosher salt

2 tablespoons ghee or butter

2 medium yellow onions, diced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon turmeric

1/4 teaspoon ground fenugreek

1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom

1/8 teaspoon nutmeg

2 tablespoons berbere

1 tablespoon smoked paprika

1/4 cup red wine

3/4 cup water

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Place the chicken on a large plate, and drizzle with lemon juice, then sprinkle with salt. Set aside.

In a medium Dutch oven over medium heat, melt the ghee. Add the onions, garlic, ginger, turmeric, fenugreek, cardamom, nutmeg, berbere and smoked paprika. Sauté until the onions are tender, about five minutes.

Add the wine and water, mixing well, and bring to a simmer.Add the chicken, turning to coat, and return to a simmer. Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer 15 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through.

Uncover, and simmer another two to three minutes to reduce the sauce. Season with salt and pepper.

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