For The Associated Press

R

eady to hit the market in search of some great tomatoes this summer? Here's a guide to some of the more common varieties and how to make the most of them.

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Beefsteaks

These are your big, red globe tomatoes. They can weigh in at a pound or more, with a 6-inch diameter. They will mix a tangy, acid bite with a touch of sweetness, creating a classic rich flavor.

"They're akin to a Burgundy," says Lawrence Davis-Hollander, author of the forthcoming book "Tomato: A Fresh-from-the-Vine Cookbook." "Big, broad, lots of nice taste, but not as focused as some of the tomatoes that are less meaty."

These are juicy tomatoes, with lots of water. Beefsteaks come in more than 350 varieties. The Brandywine is one of the most common farmers market varieties, but you might also come across Red Field Beauty, Soldacki, Cardinal, Matchless or the Mortgage Lifter, which supposedly got its name because it helped its West Virginia propagator pay off his mortgage, Davis-Hollander says.

Often called "slicers" because of their size and meaty texture, these tomatoes are great stacked on a hamburger or BLT, or carved into wedges and sprinkled with salt. Or let them form the centerpiece of the meal.

"There's nothing like a big tomato on the center of your plate, or stuffed or served with balsamic and buffalo motz (mozzarella)," says Mark Toigo, a tomato specialist for Toigo Orchards in Shippensburg, Pa.

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Bush tomatoes

Think baby Beefsteaks. These uniformly round tomatoes are racquetball-sized, with a thick skin. They make a distinctive "pop" when bitten into. Prized throughout Europe and the Middle East for their rich flavor and juicy, explosive texture, their smaller size also makes them perfect for individual consumption.

Early Girl and Czech Bush varieties are relatively common. Sometimes called "saladettes," they make bite-sized wedges perfect for salads or snacking.

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Plums or Romas

The thick-walled, oblong plum tomato is synonymous with Italy. Known in supermarkets primarily as Roma tomatoes, these big-sweet, big-acid tomatoes are known for their chewy flesh and low water content. Which makes them perfect for tomato sauce.

These tomatoes can also be used for quick saute dishes or in fresh salads where you don't want excess moisture. They offer longer shelf life than moister tomatoes.

"Throw them in a basket, and this becomes your go-to tomato," Toigo says. "It's almost like an onion. That thing will stare at you for two weeks."

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Cherry and other tiny tomatoes

Generally, the smaller the fruit, the bigger the sugar. That's one reason the tiny tomato industry has boomed in recent years.

Cherry tomatoes run about an inch in diameter and traditionally are the most delicate and complex of the small tomatoes. Growers -- and eaters -- love the Sungold for its delicate orange tint and fruity, almost tropical flavor, says Josh Kirschenbaum, product development director for Territorial Seed Company in Cottage Grove, Ore.

The Juliet, which resembles a mini-plum tomato at roughly 2 inches long, is another favorite.

Grape tomatoes, named for their size and shape, have become grocery store standards and offer predictable, uniform sweetness.

Mini-tomatoes can also be pear- or teardrop-shaped and often come in red or yellow. These will have a slightly bland, more subtle flavor than grape or cherry tomatoes.

Currant tomatoes are about 1/4 inch in diameter and are intensely sweet. They have a flavor Kirschenbaum describes as "smoky." Lucky shoppers may find white currants, tiny white tomatoes with a yellow blush.

Generally known as "snacking" tomatoes, mini-tomatoes are great skewered for shish kebabs or briefly sauteed for a pasta sauce.

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Black tomatoes

Among the more exotic summer offerings are "black" tomatoes, which sport a deep purple color and run from plum-sized up to nearly a pound. They generally have a rich, almost salty taste, Davis-Hollander says.

The Cherokee Purple offers big flavor, as does the Black Krim, which is softer and juicier than the Cherokee. These tomatoes make beautiful caprese or tomato salad, and delicious salsa. Eat them simply, with minimal adornment, to preserve their nuanced flavors.

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Bicolors

These super-juicy, gigantic tomatoes -- up to 2 pounds -- tend to be yellow with a red or orange blush, Davis-Hollander says. They have a big, fruity flavor with little of the acid associated with traditional tomato flavor.

"We're talking subtlety here," he says. Typical varieties might be Reginas, Big Rainbow or German Stripe. Use them for a delicate tomato sauce or a beautiful salsa or salad presentation. "Keep it simple," Davis-Hollander says. "You really want to eat the flavor."

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Green, yellow and orange tomatoes

Green tomatoes -- meaning those that ripen to a gentle shade of green -- generally offer an almost spicy taste, Davis-Hollander says.

Among the most popular is the Green Zebra, a slightly firm tomato with yellow-green skin and purplish stripes that runs roughly 2 inches around. Aunt Ruby's German Greens are softer and can weigh in at a pound or more.

Yellow tomatoes tend to be sweeter and less acidic, with a generally mild flavor, Kirschenbaum says. The Pineapple and Gold Medal varieties, with their bright yellow outside and red-veined interior, are popular.

Orange tomatoes, like the Earl of Edgecombe and the Indian Moon, offer a rich orange color and mild fruity flavor, Davis-Hollander says, without the acidity associated with classic tomato flavor.

For all of these, bask in their colorful glory. Generally too mild to withstand much cooking, these tomatoes should be served raw on a platter, possibly drizzled with olive oil and salt.

Roasted heirloom tomato sauce

Roasting tomatoes creates a wonderful caramelized flavor that goes great with chicken or pasta. For a yellow tomato sauce, follow the recipe, substituting Indian Moon or Earl of Edgecombe and either German Striped or any other large bicolor tomatoes, such as Regina's Yellow tomatoes.

Start to finish: Four hours

Makes about four cups

5 pounds heirloom tomatoes (a mix of Brandywine, Eva Purple Ball, Rose de Berne and Livingston's Favorite is recommended)

12 cloves garlic

Leaves from 12 sprigs fresh thyme

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 cups chopped Spanish onions

2 cups dry white wine

4 sprigs fresh basil, leaves only

Salt and ground black pepper, to taste

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Wash the tomatoes, cut out the tough stem ends, then cut the tomatoes in half. With a teaspoon, scoop out the seeds into a bowl and set aside. Place the halved tomatoes in a roasting pan or other baking dish that will hold them in a single layer, cut side up.

Chop six cloves of the garlic, and scatter them evenly over the tomatoes. Sprinkle on the thyme leaves, then drizzle 1/2 cup of the oil on top. Roast for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the tomatoes are very soft.

Let the tomatoes cool to lukewarm. Pass them through a food mill, using the small holes, or rub them through a mesh strainer to remove the skins and any remaining seeds.

In a large stainless-steel or enamel pan over medium, warm the remaining 1/2 cup of oil and stir in the onions. Chop the remaining garlic, and stir into the onions. Let the mixture sweat gently for eight to 10 minutes, or until the onions are translucent.

Add the wine, then raise the heat and simmer for 15 minutes, or until the liquid has reduced by half.

Add the strained tomato pulp. Place a sieve over the pan and pour the bowl of strained seeds into it so the juice runs into the tomato and onion mixture.

Stir in the basil and 1 teaspoon of salt. Bring to a boil, and simmer for about 20 to 25 minutes, stirring often to prevent sticking. When the sauce is thick, taste and season with salt and pepper. Remove and discard the basil leaves. Serve hot.

(Recipe from Kevin Schmitz, chef at the Marketplace Kitchen in Great Barrington, Mass.)

Fresh rainbow salsa

A rainbow array of height-of-the-season tomatoes makes an incomparably beautiful salsa. The precise amounts of tomatoes, tomatillos and hot peppers can vary. Other produce can also be added, such as cooked sweet corn or scallions.

Try a combination of Aunt Ruby's German Green, Indian Moon, Limmony, Black Aisberg and any of the red tomatoes, such as the Ponderosa and Livingston varieties. Use the salsa as a dip, or as a topping for tortillas or omelets.

Start to finish: 30 minutes

Makes about four cups

1/2 cup diced red onion

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 pound (about 6) ripe tomatillos

2 to 2-1/2 pounds fresh tomatoes (a blend of sizes and colors)

1 medium-hot chili, such as serrano or jalapeno, or 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1 clove garlic, minced

In a small bowl, mix the onion and salt. Let stand for 20 minutes.

Peel and rinse the tomatillos. If desired, they can be roasted on a baking sheet for 15 minutes at 350 degrees, then cooled. This is especially good if the tomatillos are not fully ripe (they should be yellow-green or purplish when ripe).

Roughly chop the tomatillos. Dice all the larger tomatoes. Cut any small cherry or grape tomatoes in half and large ones into four to eight pieces. Currant-sized tomatoes should be used whole.

In a medium bowl, combine all the tomatoes and tomatillos.

Dice the chili. If you do not want a hot salsa, carefully remove the seeds and the membranes from the pepper before dicing. Gently stir the chili, cilantro, garlic and salted onion into the tomatoes. Add additional salt to taste.

Let stand for 20 minutes before serving. The salsa is best the day it is made, but it will keep refrigerated for about a week.

(Recipe from Lawrence Davis-Hollander, author of "Tomato: A Fresh-from-the-Vine Cookbook")

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